Located about 30 miles from Lake Tahoe and 10 miles west of Lover’s Leap, Sugarloaf tends to be for the more experienced climber. Unlike the Phantom Spires and Lover’s Leap, there are few features on the rock. The rock at Sugarloaf has frequently been compared to Yosemite rock climbing for its smooth granite and straight crack-in climbing.
In 1978 Toni Yaniro put up Grand Illusion, the first 5.13, then the hardest climb in the world. Sugarloaf tends to be much warmer than Lover’s Leap. Summertime can be sweltering, but fall, spring, and even during a dry winter,climbing in Sugarloaf can be a perfect choice.
Some classic climbs at Sugarloaf are: Scheister 5.7, Harding’s Chimney 5.8, Pony Express 5.8, Farley 5.9, Dominion 5.10a, Finger Lock 5.10b, Bolee Gold 5.10c, The Fracture 5.10d, and Taurus 5.11b.