Today I met Rodolfo and his wife Maria at the Strawberry Station General Store. After checking out there great selection of climbing gear and grabbing snacks, we headed towards the small town of Kyburz to climb on the 400 foot spire called Sugarloaf. Twenty minutes of uphill hiking brought to the base of the cliff. We past by the climbs Bollee Gold, Harding’s Chimney, Scheister, Farley, the Fracture, and stop at the classic 5.10a Dominion.
After flaking the rope, harness’s on, geared up, we start up Dominion. A couple of easy mantles lead to a nice left facing corner that provides nice hand jams and solid trad placements. The corner widens providing finger locks, stems and a final reach to a good hold which brings us to lower angle rock and a bolted anchor.
Most parties rappel back to the ground, but since Rodolfo had never been to the summit, we continued on. A hard traverse left, brought us past the Grand Illusion, the worlds first 5.13. Ducking under a big roof we joined the third pitch belay spot of Farley.
Traversing over to Farley
The third pitch of Farley goes up a short awkward corner the leads to the spectacular “knobby face”. Clipping a bolt you head of the head wall peppered with knobs of all sizes. Twenty five feet of face climbing leads to a small crack which provides the much needed piece of gear.
Climbing the “knobby face”
Another traverse left leads to the belay of Scheister and Hardings Chimney. Either tunnel through or stem out the walls passing a couple of bolts to reach the summit.
After scrambling down from the summit, we climb a few single pitch climbs. The Fracture 10d, Taurus 11b, and the first pitch of Farley 9.
A great day indeed!
Heading up to South Lake Tahoe, California for a vacation? The skiing doesn’t seem to be enticing, come climb with us, Lover’s Leap Guides!